Gareth Pugh Autumn/Winter 2012-13, Paris Fashion Week

GARETH PUGH - The fashion show started with drama - grey leaves exploding from the ceiling out and down on to the ground to create the catwalk itself. And then out came the furry shaggy coats and dresses - the first all black and with a moon-like headpiece. Then, with each look, came transparent bands worn around the head and beneath them jostling fringing as dress ends or gripping shoulders.

There was, as ther will always be with Pugh, articulated leather in the mix - to sculpt jackets whose collars and lapels were accentuated and exaggerated. One leather lantern dress was particularly striking.
Pockets on later looks acted like restraints on the models - again, it's not Pugh without them - while collars on coats that had something of a bat about them worked like masks to obstruct the face.
And while Pugh's aesthetic is so distinct - and dark - you can see that it's one that has softened over the last few seasons and taken on board the need to be able to wear his designs if you want to be a part of his world.