Elie Saab Couture Paris Fashion Week Autumn /Winter 2012-13

MODEL of the moment Karlie Kloss opened the Elie Saab show. It was an elegant and restrained opening look – and one that set the tone for the rest of the collection.

Over the years Saab has become known for his red carpet gowns and it has become all too easy to think we’ll know what we can expect on the catwalk from him before it’s even been seen. But that wasn’t the case today. Yes, the Lebanese fashion designer went pretty and elegant and shimmery , but it was also restrained and refined.

Saab launched his label in 1982 at the age of 18 and by 2000 had been invited to show in Paris by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. In 2007, he was made a corresponding member. Evening gowns have always been at the heart of what he does.

Saab drew upon a pastel palette to promote his vision. After the series of black lace dresses came those in nude and white, and then those garnished in gold. We then saw pink and peach gowns with splaying skirts, cinched-in waists and bejewelled bodices.
The collection then moved onto a blue section; starting in shades of teal before progressing onto baby blue and then combining the two with yet more helpings of gold. And while gold was used in its plenty, shapes and embellishment were always considered.